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dying battery
#670948 September 17th 2014 8:40 pm
Joined: Sep 2013
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Does anyone have any experience with Parasitic amp drain. I experience this all of a sudden. Did not add or remove any electrical device. I performed the multimeter test in series but does not show an amp draw. Battery shows 12.8 volt at 8pm, at 8am battery shows 10.2 volts. Disconnected radio wiring (putting in a new cassette deck anyway), disconnected cig lighter (dont use it anyway) no door light switches(76 g20) since I can not get a amp reading while in series pulling fuses does nothing for me. Battery does charge when van is running, so I assume alternator is good (brand new powermaster 100amp) put in 6 months ago. New optima yellow top (1 month ago), but problem started before that replacement. Will pull the dog house and do visual on primary wiring and check distributor. Any one have a suggestions I would be happy to hear them. I have enough work to do on the van before the weather turns without looking at every inch of wire. Tks

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Re: dying battery
Randy Charles Hill #670958 September 18th 2014 2:25 am
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I have to wonder if you performed the multimeter test correctly.

When you remove the battery cable from the battery, or return it, is there a spark?

if there is a spark, and your multimeter did not read any current when in series, you are not using the multimeter correctly or the multileter is not working properly.

measuring current requires moving the positive DMM cable to the 'other' receptacle on the digital multimeter.

With the multimeter properly in series, you should be able to turn on a dome light and read the current the dome light is consuming. If the light does not turn on, you have no hope of reading current. if the light does turn on but the meter does not read it, then the meter is not working properly.

Do it on the ground (-) cable, not the positive. though both should work.

Most Digital Multimeters are good for measuring currents no more than 10 amps. Loads greater than 10 amps can blow the internal fuse.

The multimeter might still work for voltage or for Ohm readings if the fuse is blown, but it will not work for measuring current.

I wish people would not fall for marketing. optima batteries are not the cat's meow. they once were made well, but no longer are. The sic pack design might be physically stronger, but it limits the amount of lead inside, therefore it Limits capacity and cold cranking amps.

You might damage your alternator if trying to repeatedly charge an AGm battery from the point it needs a jumpstart. Use a real battery plug in battery charger. if it will not start charging the depleted AGM, you must put a pair of jumper cables between dead battery and known good one for a period before the automatic charger will see enough voltage to start.

if you want a High end AGm battery, Go for Odyssey or northstar. Thes will have 30% more capacity and cold cranking amps and cost just about the same.

Sears Die hard Platinums are rebadged Odyssey batteries for about 20% less $$. No toher difference besides casing color.

Re: dying battery
Randy Charles Hill #670991 September 18th 2014 8:27 pm
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You are correct. I did pull the neg cable and then tie the meter from the post to the cable. Meter was set at 10amp. Originally got readings in the millvolt scale but nothing after disconnecting radio/cig lighter. No spark when cables were pulled, or when replaced. I went with the optima because I had bought a red top in 2004 and it still worked up until I replaced it with the yellow top (when the red died I thought it was because of age, did not know about the p.a.d.) I stayed with optima for the fact that I got 10 years out of it. Never once had a problem and I really liked the no corrosion on post or cable. However you are right about the now and then. I lived in Denver (where they were originally made) so I had a heads up. But since Interstate took them over I did hear about some quality issues. Also the price shot up 100.00 in ten years. Will check the meter for blown fuse. TKS

Re: dying battery
Randy Charles Hill #672097 October 05th 2014 10:34 pm
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the way I have always traced down a parasitic draw is to remove the negative battery cable and put a test light inline between the cable and battery. it usually will light very dimly because of the draw from the radio memory and a couple other small things that your van will use, depending on your year.
if it glows bright, then I locate the circuit that is drawing the problem by pulling fuses, one at a time, until the light goes out. I pull one and check the light. if it doesn't change, then I put the fuse back in, and move to the next one.
once you find the circuit that is drawing power on your battery, you can go from there, checking all the wiring in that circuit and apliances that are connected.
I hope this helps. any questions, and you can message me.


The ''stickitt inn'' a 1979 chevy cozy craft conversion

1996 chevy hightop

it's only the end of the world. . . . again.

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Re: dying battery
Randy Charles Hill #673078 October 16th 2014 8:30 pm
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Van Halen rocks dude, Hey thanks for the suggestion about the test light. The multi meter sets up the same way but I like the light idea because it is either on or off. Since I disconnected the radio memory wire I have nothing that pulls power unless it is turned on. I have an overhead light rack that I disconnected (one of the 6 lights had a leak) because I was concerned it was grounding out. Still had a drain. So I retraced my steps and disconnected all relays and lead wires to the rack. Will let you know what I find. Nice van you got Dave. What tires are you running on the back? Those wheels look like the old ET slots. I had those on my 72 AMX. Could never keep the factory shine on those things. Thanks Again


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