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| | | Re: "Real time" Swap of A727 to A518 transmission | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 323 enthusiast | OP enthusiast Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 323 | Hi all, I am sure I'm not the first and won't be the last to suffer from bodged throttle linkage due to a change from a 2BBl carb to a 4BBl Holly, one of the points of this thread was to cover problems encountered during the build and offer up proposed solutions, well here's mine for anyone who wants to get rid of there bodged throttle linkage. First thing to do is get on Ebay and aquire the following parts and the4 good news is it is not expensive either!! see photos below. I have put the direct size figures that my conversion from metric to inches gives me, but I am unsure of the availability of items in these exactsizes in the US but hopefully you will see the principle and adapt the method accordingly. You will need:- 2 x Female "Heim connectors" 1 x threaded rod 1 x length of silicon tubing, or metal pipe whatever you want to use as a cover really. I have still got to measure / cut the rod to the exact length but this initial should give you an idea of the application and the best thing is the linkage is adjustable being on a threaded bar so is ideal for any bodged linkage. I also went for blue tubing to add a bit of colour as really liked ramforevers anodised linkage! Hope this is of use and will post some pics once its all fitted and in place with some before and after shots! Regards Mark
Last edited by 3pinplug; October 26th 2014 5:16 am.
| | | Re: "Real time" Swap of A727 to A518 transmission | Joined: May 2007 Posts: 9,854 Likes: 8 Festerus Vannimus | Festerus Vannimus Joined: May 2007 Posts: 9,854 Likes: 8 | Hell, I may TRY to copy that on my EFI motor as it looks GREAT ! I like the idea of heim joints as they should be smooth operating, and the idea of colored sleeve, PURDY !
My van : 1989 Ford E-150 Econoline, currently named “WOLF-DEN IIâ€
Founder & President of Sooner or Later United Truckers and PROUD TO BE A S.L.U.T. ! !
| | | Re: "Real time" Swap of A727 to A518 transmission | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 323 enthusiast | OP enthusiast Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 323 | Hi Unclefester Hope you keeping well, thanks for the comments, as soon as fitted I will post some pics - Purdy!! I like it! Regards Mark | | | Re: "Real time" Swap of A727 to A518 transmission | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,463 Likes: 12 pooh-bah | pooh-bah Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,463 Likes: 12 | 3pinplug, Heim joints work superbly! I totally rebuilt my accelerator pedal linkage, building a dual race sealed stainless steel ball bearing pivot for the pedal, then I used a Heim joint in place of the original flexible coupler to the carburetor linkage. No more issues with the spring return to low idle now! I also used a Heim joint on the cable drive throttle position sensor I designed. I'd recommend you look for the environmental seals for the joints if you don't get the Delrin or Teflon lined Heim joints; even a tiny bit of corrosion or grit does cause the all metal joints to bind up. If you don't seal them you'll have to lubricate them periodically. And the seals will even help keep dust and grime out of the Delrin or Telfon lined joints, keeping them happy for much longer. I purchased my Heim joints and seals from McMaster Carr. They call the Heim joints "Rod Ends". The seals are called "Rod End Seals". Here's where I replaced the original sloppy flex coupler in my accelerator linkage with a Delrin lined Heim joint: Here's the entire accelerator pedal linkage, from the dual ball bearing accelerator pedal pivot I built, to the carburetor end of the linkage. BTW, I had to extend the linkage several inches, by welding on a longer section of threaded rod, as the Heim joint was much shorter than the original flex coupler: Here's a rod end seal for the rod ends; you need one seal for each side: And here's how the rod end with seals fits onto my carburetor linkage, to drive my throttle position sensor: I powder coated all of it rather than covering it with tubing. I really like your idea of the tubing; no way you'd ever scratch it!
-It's been such a LONG TIME... BlueShift>> 1981 Dodge Ram B250 Custom Sportsman Maxi Van It's what you learn after you know it all, that counts... Are you living to work, or working to live? Learning from my own mistakes is good, learning from yours would be much better! | | | Re: "Real time" Swap of A727 to A518 transmission | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,463 Likes: 12 pooh-bah | pooh-bah Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,463 Likes: 12 | 3pinplug, I finally got under the doghouse so I took pictures of my kickdown linkage for you throughout its range of motion. With the carburetor at curb idle: At wide open throttle: And, with the carburetor at curb idle, with me manually holding the kickdown linkage as far forwards as it would go... this is not a position it would ever reach in normal operation due to the spring, but it illustrates that the slotted link is much longer than really necessary: I hope that helps!
-It's been such a LONG TIME... BlueShift>> 1981 Dodge Ram B250 Custom Sportsman Maxi Van It's what you learn after you know it all, that counts... Are you living to work, or working to live? Learning from my own mistakes is good, learning from yours would be much better! | | | Re: "Real time" Swap of A727 to A518 transmission | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 12,107 Likes: 37 Maniac | Maniac Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 12,107 Likes: 37 | And, with the carburetor at curb idle, with me manually holding the kickdown linkage as far forwards as it would go... this is not a position it would ever reach in normal operation due to the spring, but it illustrates that the slotted link is much longer than really necessary Excellent post with good detailed pictures and discussion. however, i think you meant "as far backwards as it would go." I don't like ot nit-pick, but I also don't want 3pin to get confused. Anyway, you are absolutely right- the slotted link is far longer than it needs to be. I never understood why Chrysler did that with the kickdown linkages.
Windows- they're what make a van worth owning! | | | Re: "Real time" Swap of A727 to A518 transmission | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,463 Likes: 12 pooh-bah | pooh-bah Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,463 Likes: 12 | Thanks Reed! You're absolutely right; I should have said "as far open" or something along those lines - the throttle valve on the transmission is wide open in that position.
I've never received a clear explanation of why the slot is even there; the spring negates the possibility of the carburetor link from going anywhere but the back of the slot by itself. Perhaps once line pressure is up to full in the transmission the throttle valve experiences more resistance? Anyway, the design really does work the way they set it up, so I've retained it, with a few small changes like the additional stainless washers to reduce lost motion in the mechanism.
-It's been such a LONG TIME... BlueShift>> 1981 Dodge Ram B250 Custom Sportsman Maxi Van It's what you learn after you know it all, that counts... Are you living to work, or working to live? Learning from my own mistakes is good, learning from yours would be much better! | | | Re: "Real time" Swap of A727 to A518 transmission | Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 323 enthusiast | OP enthusiast Joined: Aug 2010 Posts: 323 | Ram4ever and Reed, Thanks again, I ordered some of those sealing washers but after looking at yours mine appear to be reversed see below? As soon as they arrive I will fit this and post pics, have to say I do like the anodising looks great!! Regards Mark | | | Re: "Real time" Swap of A727 to A518 transmission | Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,463 Likes: 12 pooh-bah | pooh-bah Joined: Mar 2007 Posts: 4,463 Likes: 12 | 3pinplug, can you cancel that order? Those aren't the same sort of seal at all - the ones for the rod ends are built like an umbrella! Look very carefully at that picture I posted for you of the two seals in the bag; I purposefully flipped the one seal over so you can see both sides of them. The rubber umbrella extends considerably past the backside of the thin stainless steel washer. What you found looks to me to be some variety of a crush washer with an internal rubber seal for the bolt. On a rod end seal, the entire center is a thin stainless steel washer, essentially a shim, which is bonded to the rubber seal. Then the (quite thin and flexible, yet very springy) rubber seal arcs downward like an umbrella from the perimeter of the stainless washer, to meet the surface of the rod end. All of the rubber seal should be around the washer's *perimeter*, not in the center!! Here are links to the Mcmaster-Carr catalog pages with rod ends and rod end seals: http://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-end-seals/=uea0uehttp://www.mcmaster.com/#rod-end-seals/=uea1iqIf you hover your mouse cursor over the tiny pictures of the rod end seals, they will enlarge so you can see the depth and position of these seals more clearly. The ones I got are 1/8" thick, top to bottom.
-It's been such a LONG TIME... BlueShift>> 1981 Dodge Ram B250 Custom Sportsman Maxi Van It's what you learn after you know it all, that counts... Are you living to work, or working to live? Learning from my own mistakes is good, learning from yours would be much better! | | |
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