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Re: Quick, Dirty, Blow out repair.
Magus #689011 May 23rd 2015 2:40 pm
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Thanks Ripper,

Your tip sounds like a sandpaper version of the old "Cheese Grater"
I personally, never had luck using the cheese grater method. I cant time it worth a darn. It hardens to quick, pills up, or smears. Even useing the scratch test. Thats just my Crap luck.
It is a good method though.

(For everyone, the "Cheese grater" is a bondo file with holes for tearing through thick spots and shaping, right before it fully hardens. It works just like a cheese grater taking off material.)

Your first step can work well for getting it down where you need to be.

The bit about puttys, thats something I didnt know.
Im not sure ive ever seen anything but red. Ill have to look.

(Something doesnt want me to get this done, it was 40 degrees this morning, I got a 24 hour flu, and then work besides. Ill continue the repair as soon as possible)

Re: Quick, Dirty, Blow out repair.
Magus #689016 May 23rd 2015 4:05 pm
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I once worked in a boat yard, and we had to fair the whole 52' hull of a One off boat.

We had to make our own 'bondo' with a pungent vinylester resin and a thixotropic agent, and apply it at least 1/4" thick over a 4x4 square of hull. The trick was to do Ripper's method at the perfect time to minimize unnecessary sanding.

The issue was there was almost no time window where it worked properly. It went from too soft to too hard in about 45 seconds. I found it absolutely infuriating, hand sanding with a longboard through 1/4 inch of this homemade bondo. It was about 5x harder to sand than regular bondo, and we were not allowed to use machines.

After 3 attempts varying the catalyst ratio, I told the boss put me back on woodworking projects, or I quit.

5 minutes later I was driving home with my last paycheck in hand.

It was not just the fairing the hull, but the whole toxic environment, low pay, long drive, and nothing new to learn factors. The fairing the 52' hull by hand, was just the kicker.

To this day I can't stand doing bondo type work. I am a bit of a perfectionist and one can seemingly go on forever making bondo more and more perfect, so I deliberately set out to not make it perfect, as My van is no Show van and never will be.

Re: Quick, Dirty, Blow out repair.
Magus #689038 May 23rd 2015 8:41 pm
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Not 100%, so not much work, but I wanted to show a toy of mine.

Sanded a little, found some real low spots that will need to be filled in, mostly around where the patch was done. Also around the body line.
[Linked Image]

For doing the body line, I picked up a "Contour gauge" Just press the fingers flush against the line/contour to get an impression.

[Linked Image]

Then use it to transfer the shape to plastic or something else stiff to use as a guide, all along the body line.
[Linked Image]

This is a cheap one I picked up in the flooring section, with the tile tools. The one I prefer, I couldnt find, it locks, and looks like a large metal comb. This will work for what im doing.

Re: Quick, Dirty, Blow out repair.
Magus #689250 May 27th 2015 12:40 pm
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Went back to the blow out today.
It may have been a brainstorm, or brain fart, not sure which yet.
I needed to fill the low areas with the second coat of bondo.
I will also need to straighten the body line as I do it.
I decided to run a piece of tape along the body line to see how low I was. You can see the gap between the tape and panel.

[Linked Image]

Mixed up the bondo, filled the low areas, and the gap in the tape to get the body line up to level.
(Im not recommending this procedure yet, its a first for me too)

[Linked Image]

I let it dry a bit, and carefully took the tape off

[Linked Image]

After that, I just filled in the areas that still needed it.
[Linked Image]

This should give me enough material to get the body line straight again. Ill just throw on another piece of tape as a guide when sanding.
This should be the last coat of bondo, next should just be spot putty, before sanding for primer.

Re: Quick, Dirty, Blow out repair.
Magus #689259 May 27th 2015 4:57 pm
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Ok, when doing theses jobs you get to a point where, you say, its perfect or its close enough.
This was close enough.
I tryed useing the bondo brand spot putty. It was almost worthless.
So, I mixed up some regular bondo, and just used alot less hardener.
Then spread it on with a single edge razor blade.

[Linked Image]

It worked just as well, if not better.
Once I feathered in the spot fills, I moved up to 150 and 180 grit paper for the final smoothing, before primer. Once i was satisfied or sick of sanding (Not sure which) I cleaned the whole area with water, and a tack cloth to get all the dirt, and debris out of the area.
[Linked Image]

I only used the one tape line, because I wasnt worried about over spray. The whole blasted thing is going to need paint, or a serious cleaning/buffing out later down the road.
You however, should cover everything that you dont want primer on. It does get everywhere. Throwing sheet plastic over most of the car, then taping everything else works fine. Anything being painted ,Should be done inside, but i dont have that option, and im used to doing it.

First thick layer of primer is on, but not sanded.
[Linked Image]

Re: Quick, Dirty, Blow out repair.
Magus #689277 May 27th 2015 7:24 pm
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i've messed around a little with bodywork and (from my own experience) once you get the primer on you can really notice the spots that need a little more work. the body lines not perfect in the pic but not bad. are you gonna block it out a little more then prime and see? i like watching this stuff as i don't like doing it. keep the pics a comin

Re: Quick, Dirty, Blow out repair.
Magus #689288 May 27th 2015 9:46 pm
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Theres a little lump on the left side that lands right on the body line. Its in the metal, not the bondo, and, its a royal pain to cover up and hide. This is where, good enough came into play smile

I would have tryed to at least get some color on it today, however, mother nature came with a thunder storm and said enough too.

I try to get everything smooth, with no high or low spots before the primer. This is where your sense of touch is important. (its where the frustration come into the job too, if youre a perfectionist) Looking down the panel at the edge, looking for ripples, and/or dips, helps too.

Im useing a sandable filler primer. To get any last ripples or pin holes I missed. It can cover tiny things like scratches I missed too.
If you blow up the pic, youll see its not perfect either. theres one tiny run, and two dots of dirt. More sanding, Yah cool

It will be a first for me, but ill throw a guide coat on it first (never used that step before, I want to see if it really helps) then block it out with 200-300, might even wet sand it after a second coat.
Im shooting for a factory finish or better, which I think im there.
If I was going for show quality, I think Id need to get out a hammer for that lump and start over.

Once you get color on it, it shouldnt be too noticable. Some colors, like black show a lot of flaws, metallic red, not so much.

Re: Quick, Dirty, Blow out repair.
Magus #689320 May 28th 2015 4:59 pm
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Guide coat. Once you try it, you'll never sand without it again.... You may want to tap down that high spot anyway. Light taps with a rounded head hammer in a circular motion. Don't hit it too hard. Start at the outside edge and work your way to the center, feeling the lump as you go. Trust me, it will show when you paint it.


[Linked Image]
Ripper

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Re: Quick, Dirty, Blow out repair.
Magus #689327 May 28th 2015 6:35 pm
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Got a question for you Ripper.
How long should you let primer cure, before sanding or a first coat of color?
Ive heard between 2 hours and 5 days, or even more if possible?

Today I finished sanding the little places on this side of the van that i was also working on.
Ive got everything in the first thick layer of primer.
Im just not sure if I should wait till Saturday, or go ahead and start sanding tomorrow?
If the first later needs to cure, sanding and adding a second layer, will make things worse.

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