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| | | Re: 1989 B250 Oil Pressure Switch | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 2,847 Likes: 42 veteran | veteran Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 2,847 Likes: 42 | Scratch a mark on the distributor baseplate, then loosen the bolt and turn it counterclockwise a few MM and retighten. Test for power increase.
Anything below 7 degrees before top dead center really takes the power out of the 89 318 engine. I can go as high as 17 degrees BTDC before pinging on 87 octane starts.
Trusting the OEM OP gauge to be accurate, is unwise. | | | Re: 1989 B250 Oil Pressure Switch | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 161 member | OP member Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 161 | My mechanic said he believes it's the gauge and not the wiring. He said to get a good aftermarket gauge and be done with it. So, I have yet another project on my hands. I'll try your suggestion about adjusting the distributor. Sounds easy enough. I'm a little foggy on understanding the scale of MM to degrees, but I'll just move it a few MM at a time and see how to reacts. Found a good video that helped me understand better... https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qPt2qpN4grM | | | Re: 1989 B250 Oil Pressure Switch | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 161 member | OP member Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 161 | I also found this online....
"45 yrs experience here. Loosen the distributor bolt and start the engine. Turn dist to the right until engine idles as fast as it will. Then tighten the bolt and drive around the block and if it clatters rod clatter loosen the bolt and turn to the left a little and bolt down and drive around the block. Keep doing this until there is no clatter when you drive around the block and the timing is PERFECT based on the wear of that engine. That is the master mechanics timing solution for engines with wear issues."
You'll notice he is saying to turn the distributor to the right, clockwise. I'll stick with what you said, turn counter clockwise. Just wonder if you had any thoughts on this. | | | Re: 1989 B250 Oil Pressure Switch | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 2,847 Likes: 42 veteran | veteran Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 2,847 Likes: 42 | I put a 2 1/8 mechanical to the right of my center 4 Hvac vents, cutting through the steel with dremel and a cut off wheel.
The guy does not say clockwise, he says turn to the right. If sitting in the drivers seat, twisting the distributor advancing the timing, I am moving the mark at base of distributor to the right, counterclockwise.
Great thing about dodge and chevy vans pre MPFI is one can twist the distributor while actually driving. My buddy would advance the timing driving up a hill, gunning the engine, advancing the timing, gunning it, lather rinse repeat until it starts pinging, then back off a degree or 2 until it does not.
Just be sure to mark where it is now before twisting it. especially if you do not have access to a timing light.
Do you have access to a timing light?
If you do, unplug the 2 wire coolant temp sensor when you shine the light on the harmonic balancer.
| | | Re: 1989 B250 Oil Pressure Switch | Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 161 member | OP member Joined: Mar 2014 Posts: 161 | Ok wrcsixeight, I'm going to give this distributor adjustment a try.
In searching through the archives I've found some other posts of yours related to similar issues I've been researching. First off, I was glad to see you had good results with Sea Foam as I was getting ready to try it on my van. Did not know they made an aerosol too, I will try that in the TBI & vacuum lines as you suggested.
In another post I found you use Mobile 1 0W-30AFE. I've been using the Super 5000 10W-30. After I do the Sea Foam cleanse I'm going to try the 0W-30AFE and see what happens. What type of oil filter are you using?
My father was a mechanic. He always insisted I use Mobile gas. It's difficult to find around Austin, but I do know of one. Think I'll start going there and get the higher octane stuff and see what improvments in performance I can achieve when all of these changes come together.
Thanks again for your input. | | | Re: 1989 B250 Oil Pressure Switch | Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 12,107 Likes: 37 Maniac | Maniac Joined: Aug 2001 Posts: 12,107 Likes: 37 | One thing to remember is that the outer ring of the vibration damper has the timing mar on the crank and the outer ring can and does slip. On a vehicle this old you really need to verify tha tthe timing mark on the crank still accurately reads TDC.
Windows- they're what make a van worth owning! | | | Re: 1989 B250 Oil Pressure Switch | Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 2,847 Likes: 42 veteran | veteran Joined: Apr 2010 Posts: 2,847 Likes: 42 | I did use the Mobil 1 0w-30 AFE for one oil change then went back to M1 0w-40 and an M1-301 filter.
It seemed the 0w-30 was quieter than 0w-40 now is. I've had one lifter that sometimes ticks and not others, and this is more prevalent with the 0w-40.
I am less of a fan of seafoam than I was several years ago. I lean more in favor of water decarbonization with engine running for combustion chamber cleaning, and in tank fuel system cleaners with PEA, and seafoam has no PEA.
I'd not worry about getting any specific brand gas. Many gas stations buy their gas from the same supplier , same truck, and there might not be any difference.
Generally you are not going to increase engine performance by anything that comes in a can/bottle, and the low compression dodge 318, if running properly is not going to benefit from higher octane, unless already pinging at ~10 degrees before top dead center.
The mobil one oils are mostly warm and fuzzies for me. in terms of HP and engine wear any other oil likely does just as well. They synthetic s nice for the ability for extended oil change intervals.
I'd actually like to try some pennzoil ultra platinum next time 0w-30 or 5w-30. The 40 weights are not necessary. I am not climbing mountains from the desert at as high a speed as possible. | | |
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